Day 1 – Week 1 – Friday 28th June 2019
Welcome to my diary of my internship in Cambodia. I will try to keep somewhat of a daily journal of this 6 months long adventure into the wild and hopefully finding the time to publish it every week with a few pictures I will try taking along the way.
I arrived in Siem Reap on Friday. It is located in the North West part of the Kingdom of Cambodia, a country part of the formerly known Indochina which was a French colony. I will be dedicating a post to the history of the country once I have done more in-depth research and have had a proper feel of how much its history has impacted the country.
After a long trip from Paris to Hanoi, Vietnam, and a plane to Siem Reap, all I wanted was to get into my new bed and sleep for the next three days. The school had other plans for me and after meeting my boss and putting my things down in my room, I was swiftly put on the back of a motorbike to go to a party outside of town.
First time on the back of a motorbike, have to say it was quite an experience. The transition from a very cold airplane, to the warm and humid weather was rather difficult, but being put on the back of this motorbike with my new colleague I had met half an hour ago made it better. Motorbikes are the main source of transport in the country, even bikes in general. There is no need for a permit here, it is pretty much “buy the bike and learn how to use it after” – a rather big change to what you might find in Europe for sure. Everyone has one; would be interesting to see if it is eco-friendlier than cars. Anyway, I was on the back of this bike, not knowing where we were going or what was I was expecting to find on the other side of this short trip. Rather than worrying too much about this, I gripped on to the back of the back and enjoyed the ride. A first chance, after the trip from the airport at the back of a tuk-tuk, to have a look at the city and Cambodian lifestyle.
I would not say it is the most crowded city I have been to, by far. There were definitely a few empty streets. We did leave the main road rather quickly, moving to bumpier roads without tarmac, whizzing past huts and homes on the way – as well as a few dogs, mostly stray by the looks of it. Smiling children, tired parents, resting people at every street corner. It was very warm. Not suffocating as it was pretty grey but very humid for sure. It was 5pm on a Friday night, and slowly getting darker – sun sets around 7pm here. Yet shops looked very open, selling all kinds of T-shirts, a variety of occidental drinks or even local food. These shops definitely contrasted with the huge modern hotels I saw on the main street on the way from the airport.
One struck my attention: one of the hotels on the high street intrigued me. You could say it was like any luxurious hotel – big roundabout for the huge taxis and cars to bring round rich tourists, a large entrance and a polished white façade. However, this very roundabout had the particularity of having a large statue, one of the heads you might find on the temples, these religious beings that the Buddhist culture here worshipped. Using it for occidental attraction, a way of getting the rich tourist population feel like they are staying in some ‘authentic’ hotel and ‘living the Cambodian lifestyle’ because it has a religious statue at the entrance is not necessarily shocking – it’s done everywhere in the world – but sad really. Not only are they exploiting the religious beliefs for their own economic gain, but you are using a local symbol as a mean to bring more tourists without necessarily having the consent of the local population. Would you have a big statue of Jesus on the entrance of a hotel in Los Angeles to appeal to the Asian tourists to make them feel like they are getting a slice of American lifestyle? Didn’t think so.
Moving away from the city, we rapidly end up in the rural extension of Siem Reap. Here the roads start getting really bumpy, muddy and difficult to take in for my behind at the back of the bike. Yet, I manage to focus on a further observation, with the least prejudicial thoughts as possible, of my surroundings. The homes made of cement or stone are long gone; they are replaced by wooden huts and are far fewer. These huts are built out of absolutely nothing, contain large families but especially small communities. A form of small ecosystem, similar to nomad tribes with their own beliefs and social norms.
Oh yes before we go on, I study sociology and politics and that is the main reason I am here studying the country and will regularly mention cohesion and social connections, without making sound too academic.
Anyway, we rapidly arrived at the house where the party was being held. Right next to a form of dump, a fire burning in the wild, and connected to civilisation by unsteady roads, we discover this near-like mansion. The contrast was for the least surprising, if not shocking. Newly renovated, this home was the closest you could find to what Europeans would call a home within a 10km radius. While staying in the local themes of architecture with the usage of bamboo and darker textures surrounding the white cemented walls, it had these huge French windows and a beautiful pool, fenced out by a wooden fence. The contrast with disturbing but I was here to meet the other members of the school and the general French community.
Everyone was so lovely to me, welcoming me like the newest member of the family. Most of them are members of Ecole du Bayon, the school I am working for, but others came from various organisation such as Social Trust. One guy has been here for the last three years, helping to rebuild one of the Angkor Temples. Although having a quick explanation about what I will be doing for the school when I met my boss – which I will discuss in a later post this week – it was interesting having the insider view from the others from the school, telling me about various stories they have experienced over the past few months. Families they met, places they have visited or generally how life is like in the area.
After eating and enjoying a drink, I went back to my warm room with the motorbike. A very long day for me, very tiring and deserved a good night’s sleep. Bring on my first full day tomorrow.
Day 2 – Week 1 – Saturday 29th June 2019
After sleeping 14 hours, barely without waking up, have to say I was rather awake. After grabbing a quick lunch at the Pastry School, a lovely quiche Lorraine but stomach still all over the places with the traveling so could not finish, I went off to get my phone repaired. The battery I had just changed in mine died on the plane from Hanoi to Cambodia.
With the help of a new friend I had met the day before, I was guided to this repair shop close by. Which was my chance to explore one of the main streets of the city, which included the mall. A large shopping centre with the usual pizza and ice cream places, but also jewellery shops and authentic American branded trainers’ shop. Not exactly the middle of the forest type of experience I was expecting…
Get into the shop, find an English-speaking employee who very quickly addressed my issue and in no time had the battery changed and up and running. We even sorted out my new SIM card. Off to a brilliant start to the trip.
While enjoying my newly found connection to the world – in reality just a chance to tell my loved ones I was still alive – I receive an invitation from my friends from the school to go out for dinner and a drink afterwards. Crab restaurant it is.
For the little story, I have never been very fond of seafood. And recently haven’t digested it well either, which resulted in a horrible New Years’ Eve puke in Tanzania this year. Lovely. I was willing to give it a shot. It was wonderful; boiling water in the middle of the four of us, to be able to cook the various dishes that were coming. Squid, meat, mushrooms and shrimp. Lovely meal, all went down very well, and enjoyed the drinks. More was coming…
Walking through the streets to get to the restaurant earlier that evening made me realise a few things. The tourists, like in many developing countries, are essential to the country’s economy and therefore the number of tuk-tuk who ask you whether you need a lift is hallucinating. Town centre is not necessarily full of monuments to visit but definitely full of tourists. I’m guessing the gambling, the flashy lights and the shops full of cute accessories inspired from manga stories bring round the international population to these areas. You also cross a few “KTV Bars”, which are notorious in Asian countries: karaoke bars are everywhere, including next to my current room. A few drinks after or during dinner usually brings the local population to go out with friends and family to have a laugh and sing as badly as possible on local or international music.
Meanwhile, we ended up in our own national bar to sing ridiculously to French music. Beach house type of bar with palm trees and seats inside an empty pool, a great DJ with old classics got the whole bar dancing, whatever age. Delicious Gin and cucumber drinks were being downed at the second. Lively birthday party by the looks of it. Very French party for sure, which helps feeling at home.
However, with an eye on the clock and work on Monday in mind, I left at 2 am to go home. The streets had gone quiet, shops were finally closing – they have very different working hours … Tucked in for the night, with the hope of a peaceful Sunday in mind before the start of work on Monday.
Day 3 – Week 1 – Sunday 30th June 2019
Early rise today. 6 hours sleep were clearly enough for my body apparently. Quick shower and down to my new favourite place: the chairs of the pastry school. Breakfast was in order today: chocolate croissant and a jug of lime juice. No better way to start the day, all served with a radiant smile.
Inspired by my past holiday notes last summer in Canada or Interrail, and on recommendation from my mother, I started taking notes on this lovely trip that I have embarked on for 6 months, which led to finally publishing this blog. I am completing this first post every few hour as I wanted something about Cambodia to be on the website before I published it. This will be the last log on week 1 and will be keeping everything on Word for the next week before posting it all next weekend. Feel free to follow the Facebook or Twitter page in order to be notified of a new post, which might not necessarily be about Cambodia.
Anyway, back to Sunny Sunday. I spent a few hours setting up all the blog. Had nowhere to be at that point and just wanted to relax before going back out into the city for another activity. Which I did eventually when I was asked to join the group for a pétanque, typical French ball game which apparently is pretty popular here as well. Not as much as pool apparently, which the locals excel in by the sounds of it. To be tested soon…
Walking through the streets of Siem Reap once again, taking in as much as I can at every step. More requests for tuk-tuks, think I can walk 10 minutes guys come on…
A side note, money wise. They announce all their prices in US Dollars, sometimes with the other currency which is Cambodian Riel. 1 USD becomes about 4.1 KHR. When you pay a little too much, which happens regularly, they will usually give back the money in KHR. You can pay 1$ for a bottle of Coke, and they somehow will give you back some change. Ludicrous… It is difficult to find regular banks where you might not be taxed so much when taking out money. Therefore, a standard 4-5 dollars are the usual rate for any withdrawals from ATMs for anything under 250$. Everything is very, very cheap. It all eventually adds up if you buy lots of small things obviously, but you can spend 25 minutes in a tuk-tuk ordered on the local Uber, PassApp, and still only pay 5$.
After searching for a bit – very little amount of street names and numbers here, although have to admit I am surprised at how detailed Google Maps is here – I eventually find the meeting place. A French owned hotel with a largely American population within the tourist. A rather uneven pétanque ground made the game a little challenging and eventually lost quite miserably 14-3… Little disappointed in my performance but was definitely fun to play it on the other side of the globe.
I walked back home after enjoying a little dip in the pool. Crossing the street here can seem terrifying at first: motorbikes coming in every direction, the occasional big car which seems to have a little more self-control that the bikes but still scary. You need to really engage, not stop half way and be confident. Bikes will roll around you, the cars will stop, but only if you really engage into crossing. Otherwise you will firstly never cross the street and secondly you could get hurt. Be vigilant obviously but be confident as well.
A quick shower and a Face Time later, I managed to eventually sign up to PassApp. Rather difficult when you don’t know your Cambodian number and your French SIM card is back in your room in another phone. Technology eh? Aiming to go to my friend’s place, knowing he lives in the bang middle of nowhere. Now that was a challenge. We went in circles, getting lost a few times with the tuk-tuk but we eventually made it. Beautiful Cesar salad with a lovely group of people, a good way to relax a bit before starting work properly the next day. I got a little more insight into what everyone does for the school, whether it’s planning meals based on the school’s vegetable garden or simply running various operations around the area. I had already met a few other charities through members who were present at Friday’s party, including some who organise football matches for blind people, truly illuminating stuff.
Back home, another quick shower – rather hot in my room have to say, just lacking a bit of air, so a little cold water before sleeping always helps – and off to bed early for it was going to be an important night before starting a 6 months long operation with Ecole du Bayon which I am really excited about.
Here’s a link to their website: http://ecoledubayon.org/
I will be explaining in next week’s log what I will be doing for them, as I have a vague idea right now but would rather work through a week first to have a more precise idea of what is expected of me. Hope you are all enjoying the content so far, I am trying my best to keep up with pictures and the text, so far so good. Feel free to leave comments underneath the post or message me on the Tea Time Tom Facebook page. Talk to you all soon.
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